This richly informative book from the late chef of the restaurant Doi Ka Noi in Vientiane, capital of Laos, is a bold achievement, beautifully photographed, passionate, uncompromising, and yet delighted to encourage your interest in Lao food.
Doi Ka Noi served a seasonal menu of seven or eight dishes which changed daily. Founder and chef Ponpailin "Noi" (little one) Kaewduangdee recognized that cooks outside Laos may not have the same ingredient access she did, but she shared here recipes, technique and equipment instructions, and generous guidance on Lao flavor profiles.
A thirty-plus page section on essentials of the Lao larder will introduce you to dry-roasted sticky rice powder; chewy khao paik noodles made from rice and tapioca flour; the husks of prickly ash; butterfly pea; passionfruit tendrils; freshwater river algae; and many more items. It also provides advice on selecting fish sauces, fresh herbs and greens, root vegetables, and fruit.
There are more than 125 recipes. Some are simple preparations, such as a salad starring fermented rice noodles, lime juice, fish sauce, garlic, and tomatoes. Or a spicy relish prepared from charcoal-roasted chilies. But there are more ambitious dishes as well:
Spicy chicken salad with banana flower, lemongrass, spring onion, and herbs
Fried pork ribs with makrut lime leaves and ginger
Stir-fried bitter gourd with egg
Large mild chilies stuffed with fish
Young jackfruit with spring onion, chili, mint, and roasted rice powder
Caramelized coconut in rice flour dough
The book itself is well-produced, featuring strong photographs of preparation technique, finished dishes, and Laos and its people. At nearly 500 pages with a substantial 9¼“ x 11¼” trim size, it feels as significant in your hand as its very welcome contribution to culinary literature.
Hardcover. Color photographs throughout. Two colored ribbons.
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